Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan
“What a great read! The author, who cut his surfing teeth in Hawaii and California as a kid, has traveled the world with his surfboard as a journalist and war correspondent. He worked in Apartheid South Africa as a teacher, visited locales of cargo cult fame, surfed spots in out-of-the-way places where folks had never seen a board, and then returned to the NoCal water of San Francisco for the ultimate schooling. This Pulitzer-winning book recounts all of that and more, and also describes the waves and water conditions in such a way that you feel them. You are with him on that board anticipating the two-wave hold-down; you are scared of the banded sea-snakes; and you are hoping the rocks or the reef don’t get him in the end. They almost do, but he prevails in a reflective and self-deprecating way. Recommended to surfers, folks who like the ocean and the mechanics of wave formation, risk takers, adventurers, and anyone who likes a good non-fiction story.”
–Laura, Collection Development
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